How to create a chain link fence. II

Ok, so we're back with Part II of the fence building guide. 
     Items Required:
           1) Wire pliers
           2) Thin gauge wire
           3) Gray paint/primer for fence posts
           4) A heat source to bend the posts (optional) ***Use caution melting plastic!
The process:  Use a lighter or other heat source to bent the posts where desired.  Place the posts in the terrain piece you are working with and then prime them.  Take the thin gauge wire and wrap the fabric around the post at the desired location.  Bring the two ends of the wire together and twist them tight with the pliers.  Cut off the excess and repeat.  That's it!  Simple, quick and dirty fences to spruce up your wargaming terrain.
Pics below.  Enjoy!

How to create a chain link fence. I

Ok, So part one of an easy tutorial on how to make a chain link fence for your tabletop board game.

     Items Required:

            1)  A bolt of mesh fabric

            2)  A handfull of hollow plastic sucker sticks

            3)  A bottle of "Stiffy" Fabric Stiffener

            4)  Primer and two shades of gray paint and boltgun metal.

And now, the process.  Cut a length of fabric that is suitable for the scope of your project.  Next, cut the height according to the scale of your model.  For this you may wish to Google pics of people standing next to chain link fences to get an idea of the scale.  Next, brush "Stiffy" on the fabric fairly thick, and later remove all excess with a paper towel by blotting or dabbing and be careful not to wrinkle the fabric.  After the "Stiffy" has dried, prime the material.  Follow the primer up with a dark shade of gray basecoat.  Then drybrush a second, lighter shade of gray atop the first coat.  Finally, lightly drybrush boltgun metal on top of the grays.

Further details to follow.  Stay tuned.

Traitor Guard Psykers: Before & After

TerraiNation III

Ok, so here is the progression of the terrain project I started for my new store.  A lot of the detail work is now finished but there are several more items left to be addressed, for example, pouring resin for rivers and pools and finishing the weathering effects to show more signs of wear and abuse.  There are a lot of rust effects done already, but what is to come are a few more effects with oil paints and several of my custom diluted ink washes to achieve the effect I am looking for.  The theme is really starting to take place here.  Please let me know what you think!

Tweaking Forge World Resin

     If you have been in the hobby for a while, chances are you have come across something built by Forge World.  If you have made any purchases yourself, you may have been very surprised to receive a freezer bag full of delicious resin whose contents are severely warped and twisted.  I am here to tell you to have no fear.  There is always a way out of it.  Follow along as I show you how to right a couple of warped Hydra cannons.
1) Notice the barrels of the guns are curved very badly.  Now, your first instinct may be to bend the gun but please follow along for now.  Do not ever try to bend your expensive resin without first heating it, it will snap.

 2) Grab an old pot from the kitchen and fill it with enough water to properly submerge the part you are trying to fix.  A quick depth check before putting this on the stove will ensure that you are able to reach the affected area.
3) Heat the water to a boil and CAREFULLY dip the affected parts into the water for about 15 seconds.

4) Quickly and again CAREFULLY bend the resin to your desired shape while the heat remains, and VIOLA!  Your resin will now shoot straight and true.  For the Emperor!

TerraiNation II

So, I managed to get a few other parts of this massive terrain undertaking completed tonight.  Here are the steps in order:
1) After the build, I rubbed a foam type gap filler putty in the major gaps which were later sanded when it dried.
2) The entire building was given a rough coat of paint.  For this I just wanted a fine dusting so I used the Games Workshop stuff, but there are some dashboard paints out there that will really give you some grit.
3) The building and surrounding hill were primed black.
4) The building was painted using the darkest color of rust in my own personal rust paint set.  After this, a custom TTG Studio wash was then applied with an airbrush.
5) Resin sand was then mixed with chestnut ink and spread liberally around the rusted bits.  Notice the pipes... Again these are Hirst Arts.  Cool Stuff.
6) Hairspray was then applied to the building.
7) I got out the airbrush and began to paint the concrete area and the terrain around the building.

The concrete effect is attained by using a type of concrete patch and crack filler(found at Home Depot) spread thinly on top of the foamboard.  I used a triad of gray paints to make the contrast from light to dark.  A quick wash of TTG Studio "Black" to give it some depth and there we have it.  The dirt around the hill will need to be much darker brown for the overall theme of this board which I have decided to make a toxic waste dump.  This waste dump has now become a playground for Nurgle.  Eventually I will add little nurglings around in some resin pools but for now this is all the time I have had.  Let me know what you think!

Things to come...

Things are about to get interesting with the addition of the new Hirst Arts Hulk molds.  Look for a 3D Space Hulk to come in the near future!